domingo, 26 de julio de 2009

Viaje al Norte - Día 3 - Cafayate

Me había olvidado los placeres de escribir! Los placeres de los cometarios de los que leen, por acá y por otras vías, dan ganas de seguir escribiendo... y lo voy a seguir haciendo, que a este diario de viaje le falta mucho.

Amanecer en Cafayate, nos levantamos para desayunar; y ya teníamos de forma gratuita por
el hostel una excursión a los distintos viñedos y para hacer

cata de vinos, asique ahí fuimos con todos los del
hostel a distintos viñedos, Domingo, Nanni y La Vasija
Secreta. Probamos distintos vinos, el torrontes, típico vino de Cafayate; fue interesante; pero poco recomendable hacer una cata de vinos a las 10 de la mañana, dan más ganas de hacer
cata de medialunas y mate. A la tarde habíamos contratado una excursión a la quebrada de las conchas, vimos unas fotos y nos quedamos tan fasinadas con el lugar que quisimos ir. Y luego teníamos planeado tomarnos el micro a Salta directamente en la ruta, ya que de la excursión, nos dejaban en la parada que el micro tenía en la garganta del diablo.

Luego de la excursión a los viñedos, fuimos a almorzar con Alfredo y con Tiger a un restaurant de por ahí que se llama el hornito o algo parecido, y tenía un hornito muy simpatico y te hacían empanadas, bastante ricas pero de tamaño gourmet, asique entre cuatro
nos comimos 2 docenas y media de empanadas. Luego volvimos al hostel, cargamos nuestras cosas, y nos despedimos de Cafayate (por ahora).

Nos encontramos arriba de una combi
con un perro, el guía que era un niño de 20 años (niño
para ser guía, no me hago la grande por tener 2 años más que él); cuatro franceses y dos americanos. Nos llevaba en combi y después nos hacía caminar,
había varias paradas, la primera era toda la quebrada, después algo que no recuerdo como se llamaba pero las piedras eran a rayas de colores, como si estuvieran pintadas; el anfitetatro y la garganta del diablo. Llegamos a la primera parada, nos bajamos y estuvimos recorriendo, sacando fotos, el guía masomenos vio de que iba el grupo, hacía chistes malos, etc. Caminando, y hablando con este grupo de franceses, le pidieron como un trekking mas intenso,
y él, viendo que era un grupo jóven y cong anas de aventura, decidió llevarnos a un lugar mejor que donde debíamos ir, que se llamaba los castillos, y nos llevo a "el paso", todo un pasillo de formación rocosa, por el cual solo transitan dos familias para ir a una pequeña comunidad donde viven (vale destacar que "el paso" no figura en ningún mapa, y sólo se que se llama así porque vi el cartel antes de entrar).
Estuvimos caminando con el aproximadamente 40 minutos, hasta que en un momento nos dijo que él llegaba hasta ahí, y que debíamos seguir solos, yendo siempre para la izquierda siguiendo el camino.Mientras nosotros haciamos eso, el volvia a buscar la camioneta y nos esperaba sobre la ruta, del otro lado del paso.
A todos nos parecio medianamente lógico, ya que la indicación de "el camino es fácil, no se pueden perder, siempre para la izquierda", parecía prometedora. A mi en lo personal había cosas que me hacian ruido, primero porque hablo de caminar solos como 40 minutos, y porque en un momento habló de "los últimos 4 km" .
Pero bueno, la agrupación estaba dispuesta, asique ahí fuimos, siguiendo el camino para la izquierda. Al principio todos felices y contentos, hasta que la vegetación, escasa pero totalmente pinchuda, empezo a molestar. Al principio los corriamos, nos metiamos como podíamos, pero llego un momento del camino que esto se torno insostenible y tuvimos que subir y seguir el camino por la montaña. Ya empezar a desviarse asi no tenía un buen augurio. Seguimos el camino y llegamos a la cima, no veiamos nada de lo que el había descripto, y después de una breve crisis de que hacemos, decidimos ir por la ruta, por cualquier camino; total, ya nos habíamos declarado perdidos.
Desde la cima de la montaña vimos la ruta hacia la derecha, bastante lejos, y hacia ahí fuimos, un poco por donde podíamos, porque donde estabamos no había ningun camino marcado (porque claro, la gente no va por ahí, estabamos perdidos en una montaña extraña). La situación era un poco graciosa, sobretodo porque como la mayoría eran franceses, yo lo unico que escuchaba eran franceses discutiendo, por lo cual, me sentía en una especie de Robinson francés donde Ari y yo nos habíamos metido por error.
Asique el francés hombre se puso la expedición al hombro y empezo masomenos a guiar el camino, la idea era ir yendo para el lado de la ruta. Asique subimos, bajamos, fuimos descubriendo pasajes increibles en el medio de la montaña, formaciones rocosas rarísimas y sacando muchas fotos; aunque también tuvo sus momentos de tensión, por ejemplo, que el camino se acabe en un precipicio y de repente tener que escalar; yo termine subiendo la montaña a gatas, porque con la cámara y mis zapatillas poco aptas para hacer trekking me resbalaba. Aparte las montañas del norte tienen algo muy particular, y
es que no son de piedra, son de polvo, entonces uno se quiere agarrar y hace un poco de fuerza, y paf; de repente tenes la mano llena de polvo y no estas agarrado de nada. Entre la risa, los nervios, el miedo de pasar la noche en el medio de la montaña y morirnos de frío porque no teniamos abrigo, cruzamos varias complicaciones
para llegar a la ruta. Entre ellas, destaco; caminar a 45 grados (mis tobillos agradecidos cuando volvimos a caminar bien); tener que tirarnos a modo de tobogán en una formación de roca blanca que abajo era hueca para seguir caminando; el salto de 2 metros que tuvimos que bajar para seguir caminando; y bueno, como dije antes; el momento inolvidable de estar subiendo la montaña en cuatro patas, que no podía dejar
de reirme de la situación bizarra en la que nos vimos envueltas por ser abandonadas por el guía en medio de una montaña fantasma. Vimos muchos lugares increíbles, super exclusivos que jamás sabremos que era o donde eran, pero tardamos un montón en volver a encontrar la ruta, la encontramos cuando ya estaba anocheciendo. Asique apenas llegamos nos teníamos que poner en campaña de encontrar al guía o volver a Cafayate o algo, porque empezaba a hacer frío y ya la emoción de la excursión se había acabado. Paramos un remisero que estaba yendo a Salta, le explique la situación, y se fue con Ari a buscar al guía, que según nos había dicho, había visto una combi a 5 km de donde nosotros estabamos. Al rato volvio Ari con nuestro guía, y ahí reinaba el mal humor; porque con todo ese circo, nosotras y otros dos habíamos perdido el micro a Salta y nos veiamos obligados a pasar otra noche en Cafayate, que a nosotras no nos molestaba; pero a los dos franceses les complicaba el cronograma. Llegamos al hostel, y finalmente terminamos negociando
que por el momento abandónico en la montaña, nos dejaran dormir gratis, y nos pagaran el micro a Salta al otro día, asique resuelto esto, teníamos gratis nuestros pasajes para salta, para las 9 de la mañana. Nos volvimos a acomodar en nuestra habitación, y fuimos a comer de nuevo al mismo lugar del hornito con Tiger y Alfredo. Cuando volvimos, nos quedamos cerca del fuego mirando tele, y a la cama; toda la adrenalina del día había sido fatal, pero el negocio nos había salido perfecto porque teníamos una noche y un pasaje gratis; un respiro para nuestra economía.

Es que en esas situaciones, y si bien no había sido extrema, uno se pone a maquinar muchas cosas, se acuerda de mucha gente, tiene ganas de compartir estos relatos con amigos, con queridos; esas situaciones que a uno le despiertan los amores mas sinceros hacia las personas, ahí te sale solo sin forzar, a quien le compartirías casi automáticamente tus aventuras, a quien extrañas, con quien te gustaría estar; a quien recordaste de casualidad, etc. Si bien no recomiendo andar por la montaña perdido, perderse un poco a veces, tener un poco de miedo y vivir algo así te ayuda; es casi revelador y esclarecedor... si algún día se pierden en la montaña aprovechen, dicen que las montañas tienen secretos para nosotros, y cuanta razón tienen, pero yo no creo que los secretos los tenga la montaña, sino mas bien nosotros mismos, y la montaña nos libera para que podamos ver con claridad algunas verdades que a veces nos cuesta aceptar.

Tanto traqueteo nos dio sueño, fuimos a descansar, había que ahorrar energías porque Bolivia todavía estaba muy lejos....

74 comentarios:

sofi! dijo...

"viendo que era un grupo jóven y con ganas de aventura," y zapatillas con suelas lisas! jajajaj
por eso la peli se llama secreto en la montaña, las montañas esconden secretos y gente gay.
jajaja
te amo

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hey anita! empece a leerte!! me re gusta el relato, espero que lo sigas....yo prometo leerlo :)
ya quiero saber como sigue!
que loca quedarte en medio de la nada donde nadie habia caminado antes...me hubiese muerto de miedo...pero bueno...como decis esas oportunidades nos hacen pensar en cosas que de otro modo no pensariamos!!
besos miles!!

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